By Gwendolyn Howard, Dining Columnist
Described as one of the most famous restaurants in the world, Schatzi on Main was founded by celebrity couple Maria Shriver and Arnold Schwarzenegger in 1991.
As I walked up the entry area at 3110 Main Street in Santa Monica, the charming dining patio was just ahead. The interior of Schatzi ("sweetheart" in German) is a dining area reminiscent of a European wine cellar. The curved decorative brick ceiling gave me an impression of height without losing a sense of comfort and at the same time, a relaxing feeling. I knew this was going to be a memorable evening.The wine list was impressive and offered extensive choices of California and international wines, champagne and cognacs. The wines by the glass were numerous. I decided to start with an Austrian wine in honor of Arnold’s birth country. Called Gruner Veltliner, Freie Weingartner Wachau (a real mouthful before the food) ’97, I sipped on this dry white while munching on bread covered with the eatery’s appetite teaser. The new flavors were delicate and for a change, not made with olives or olive oil. Rather, the little cool container held butter with tiny bits of garlic and sun dried tomatoes.
The menu is one of the most diverse and inventive I have seen in quite awhile. It offered everything from wood oven baked pizza to pastas to fish and sushi specialties. Along with these suggestions, eight types of salads are available, as well as pork chops ‘Terminator’ (grilled pork chops with Pommery mustard sauce, with a cassoulet of red beans, potatoes and mushroom ($17.95). The Combo Azucana Cajun (spiced beef tenderloin with marinated tiger shrimp, demi-glazed with Burgundy) deserves a try ($18.95).
These are only a hint to the imaginative creations by executive chef, Helmut Elmann. His consistency in creating high quality California/Continental cuisine is admirable.
The Schatzi steak tartare appetizer (served with toast points and butter) is tender and juicy ($16.95). The sauce is the "coup de grace", with a blending of red pepper, onion Tabasco and Worcestershire. The appetizer "piece de resistance" was the trio of ravioli stuffed with fresh spinach and ricotta cheese. The three large ravioli rested on a superb wild mushroom sauce, garnished with Chinese vegetables ($8.95).
Two entrees in particular deserved a tasting. The first, an oven roasted half chicken prepared with fresh herbs and served with creamy, fluffy mashed potatoes and fresh asparagus ($16.95). Second, the roasted New Zealand rack of lamb was also served with mashed potatoes, a red wine mint sauce garnished with crispy carrot strings ($24.95). I chose Napa Valley’s Leaping Lizard Merlot ’97 to complement these dishes.
Host for the evening was the president of Schatzi on Main, Charly Temmel. He was so gracious to me and other diners, it gave me a feeling I was eating in someone’s elegant wine cellar. He started his restaurant career in his native Austria (Arnold was born in the same town, Graz). Charly came to the U.S. over four years ago and brought the secret recipe for his Charly Temmel Gourmet Ice Cream flavors. (they like ice cream even in a wintery place like Austria). He owns seven ice cream shops abroad. Now he has opened a Charly Temmel Gourmet Ice Cream shop on the Third Street Promenade and plans more in the future. He surprised me with a gourmet ice cream creation (there are four), namely, the Mocha-Almond Truffle ($7). The Romans best beware as this chocolate cylinder was rolled in darker chocolate sprinkles and presented on a plate decorated with hot fudge and whipped cream. It was wickedly luscious. The other 15 ice cream flavors include three scoops of tiramisu ice cream. The distinctive flavors of this popular Italian dessert are combined and served with whipped cream. I wanted to try Arnold’s Dream Cup ($12.50), but five scoops of ice cream with fresh fruit, liquor and whipped cream were by then well beyond my capacity!
Call (310) 399-4800 for information and reservations. Ask about the monthly Cigar Night at Schatzi on Main. It’s a private party the first Monday of each month. Who knows, you may even see Arnold there among the guests!
